    The BIQU Hurakan touts some pretty impressive features for a commercially available printer. It's the first I've seen to ship with Klipper preinstalled on the BTT Manta control board. In addition to BTT's latest board and TMC2209 drivers, the Hurakan ships with a filament run out sensor, a newly redesigned ABL sensor, toolhead mounted lighting, an SPI connector for ADXL, and a multizone heated bed. Will the Hurakan hold up to the hype and expectations or will it turn out to be just another overpriced Ender 3 clone?
The printer was packaged quite nicely. Everything was secure and easy enough to unpack. There were only 3 pieces to assemble: the X gantry onto the Z, and the Z onto the base. The Z lead screw was wrapped nicely and appeared to be well protected. The Hurakan ships with a single Z motor and lead screw. BIQU promises that a dual Z kit will be available soon, and the gantry already house screw holes to mount the second motor.
After the quick assembly process, the initial bed leveling took around 20 minutes to get right. The printer does come with screw_tilt_adjust preconfigured which should make the process much faster should you use it. I am not particularly happy with the default configuration. The printer.cfg file is separated into 3 separate files which is typical to keep things organized. The configuration here however, does not seem with be split in any way that I understand which makes finding some settings a bit tedious. Settings are split between printer.cfg, mainsail.cfg, and generic-bigtreetech-m4p-hurakan.cfg.
The ABL sensor checks out surprisingly well. PROBE_ACCURACY shows a standard deviation of 0.002839, and BIQU claims it will be accurate for 10 million probes.
For a thin bed, the surface is surprisingly flat. I was able to obtain a bed mesh with a 0.156mm variance without difficulty. The build surface is described as PEI Spring Steel. To me, this feels more like the buildtak that ships with Creality printers. I would have preferred a higher quality PEI sheet, but I haven't had any adhesion issues so don't see the need to rush out and purchase one.
    After a quick PID tune and setting the Z offset, the first print was a presliced version of everyone's favorite print - the Benchy Boat. When I started the print I couldn't understand why it was set to take over 3 hours to complete. Once it finished, I found two things. 1- the print speed was set exceptionally low at 30mm/s for most of the print. 2- the presliced Benchy turns out to be at about 150% scale. The white boat is from the Hurakan, the purple boat is standard from another printer.
    After one successful print, it was time to save the changes I had made to printer.cfg and the z offset. After SAVE_CONFIG, I was greeted with an error stating that it couldn't be saved. A reboot cleared the changes, and I was able to reset the z offset without an issue. I believe this was related to the PID tune.
With the thin bed it should be no surprise that both the bed and the hot end reach temperature very quickly, with both being at temp in about 2 minutes.
The first test print left a lot to be desired, and I expected better out of a presliced print using their supplied PLA sample. Layer lines were very visible with uneven extrusion, and overhangs could have been improved. I intentionally let the second print fail in order to test the runout sensor and the resume print function. Both seemed to work as expected. For the first print I sliced, I used the BIQU B1 profile in Cura, and increased the speed to 80mm/s and the acceleration to 5000mm/s2. I sliced a benchy and hit print. The first layer went down exceptionally well at 20mm/s. The print took 1hr and 35 minutes, a respectable speed for a cartesian printer. The overall print quality was better than I anticipated, but does still show the need for some increased cooling on overhangs like the doors. I did attempt this print with only the smaller portion of the build surface heated. Heat up time was unaffected, and while the rest of the bed did get warm, it didn't quite make it to the 60 degrees I was printing at.
Overall I'm impressed with the build quality of the printer and the quality of the prints it produces. The base is solid, and I have no movement in the frame. After fixing the printer.cfg and some minimal tuning I'm turning out acceptable prints. From what I can tell the features and print quality are right on par with the Creality Ender 3 v2 Neo, which has a price tag of $298 retail but is often found on sale for $239. With the improved control board and integrated CB1, the $400 price tag on the Hurakan may be worth it for those that don't want to invest the time in upgrading and writing firmware to an Ender 3. I am disappointed that the firmware shipped with issues, and being $100+ over the ender3 I would have liked to see it ship with a direct drive extruder, dual Z, and an accelerometer built into the toolhead breakout board. For those who want to get started on their Klipper journey and may not have the hardware skills or time required to swap boards, the Hurakan is a solid choice for good quality prints.